7-24-13 Update

Hello All - It is time for another update.

Jon and I are staying in a South Dakota State Park outside of Belle Fourche located on a reservoir.  Belle Fourche is French and translated it means Beautiful Fork.  The town is located at the Fork of the Redwater and the Belle Fourche Rivers.

Belle Fourche's claim to fame is that it is the Geographical Center of the United States.  After the addition of Hawaii in 1959, the Center of the Nation was moved to a location approximately 20 miles North of Belle Fourche.  It is on private land, and the owner did not want a monument on the property, so a monument was placed next to the Visitors Center in Belle Fourche. 

The monument is located in a park setting next to the Belle Fourche River.  Along with the monument, there is a courtyard, picnic area and avenue of state flags.  In an article that I read about the monument, the director of the Belle Fourche Chamber of Commerce was quoted as saying, "It is more than a destination or mark on the map.  It marks the Heart of America where life is uncomplicated, people are friendly and a true sense of community rings true."  The monument was completed and dedicated in the summer of 2009, and in 2012 the visitor center estimates that approximately 20,000 visitors have visited the monument.

Belle Fourche was also the destination of a cattle drive in John Wayne's movie "The Cowboys".  Jon has this movie, and he showed it to me since we arrived here.  I actually really enjoyed it.  The railroad that came through this area in the late 1800's is what started the town.  Cattle from the all over the West were shipped by railcar back East from the Belle Fourche area.

This week Jon and I spent some time in Sturgis.  The famous or at least infamous weeklong motorcycle rally for 2013 will take place starting August 3rd.  Jon and I planned on going one day to see the bikes, but we will be leaving the area the day the rally starts.  I received a call this morning from the Superintendent of Curt Gowdy State Park.  He asked me if Jon and I would be interested in a volunteer camp host position in one of the campgrounds located within the state park.  I said yes, so on August 3rd we are going back to Wyoming until the end of September.  

I was going to show Sturgis "before" the rally pictures and "during" the rally pictures, but since I will not be there, I will show you the before pictures today.

I have learned that every town in the west has something unique about its history and Sturgis is no different.

Sturgis was named after Colonel Sturgis who was the commander of the Fort Meade Cavalry Base located just about 14 miles west of Deadwood.  There was widespread interest to develop a town closer to the post.  With a 20 dollar gold piece from the Colonel, the town of Sturgis was started with an 80 acre tract of land 1 mile west of the post.  

Colonel Sturgis was the commander of the Seventh U.S. Cavalry.  Fortunately for the Colonel and unfortunately for the rest of the regiment, Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer was in charge of the cavalry when they all perished at the Battle of the Little Bighorn.  

 Ft. Meade

Fort Meade is no longer an active military base, the Veterans Administration has taken over the area.  A VA hospital has been built on the grounds.  Employees of the hospital are allowed to live in the homes.  A museum is in the command building and the dorms are used for the National Guard when they are in training.

Fort Meade is full of history.  I mentioned Col. Sturgis and Lt. Col. Custer, and now I am going to tell you the most fascinating thing that I have learned in years.  Okay - well, I have to digress slightly.  On the Fourth of July, Jon and I were in Sundance WY.   Jon made a campfire and we sat outside to watch fireworks.  I chose that evening to look up information on America and the history of our country.  It seemed like an appropriate time.  Well, I learned the Star Spangled Banner was actually written during the war of 1812 and not during the revolutionary war like I had always assumed.  OK - I am finished digressing, now back to Fort Meade.

I want to quote directly from an article that I read:     On July 4th, 1892, on the parade grounds of Fort Meade the final number that the regimental band played was the Star Spangled Banner.   As the first few notes rang out and echoed in the forest of the nearby Black Hills, everyone snapped to attention.  The footnote printed on the concert program stated "During the playing of "The Star Spangled Banner' all persons within hearing distance are required to rise and all men not under arms will remove their hats".  The order came from Colonel Caleb H. Carlton, commanding officer of the Eighth Cavalry who was also the post commander from February 16 to December 12 of 1895.  Carlton credited his wife with suggesting that he try to establish "The Star Spangled Banner" as the national air since America had no anthem while other nations did.  Colonel Carlton had another purpose - to enforce respect for our national flag by having everyone rise and remove their hats when the colors passed by them.  The New York Times reported that the Colonel of the Eighth Cavalry was trying to establish a National Anthem.  This attracted attention around the nation.  By the time of the Spanish American War, the music had become familiar enough to be considered an unofficial national anthem.  The headline of the New York Times of March 3, 1930 read "The Star Spangled Banner" is voted National Anthem by Congress.

On a side note:  The author of the"Star Spangled Banner", Francis Scott Key, a lawyer and author from Baltimore, Maryland, had been taken prisoner on a British ship during during the nighttime bombardment of the British Siege of Fort McHenry on September 13 and 14, 1814.  He composed the poem upon witnessing the embattled American flag still flying the following morning.

Ft. Meade Cemetery

The cemetery at Ft. Meade is the only Cavalry cemetery that is still in the original location.  All others have been relocated over the years.

Well, that is all for now.  

7/20/13 Update

Hello!

This has been a great week.  We are enjoying South Dakota.

We spent an entire day at the DC Booth Fish Hatchery in Spearfish SD.  Fish Hatcheries were started by the National Government in the early days of western migration.  Fish hatcheries were used to grow fish to plant into waterways, rivers, creeks, streams etc.,  as a food source for early settlers.  Fish were planted in areas where there were no fish or where the fish numbers had declined significantly due to overfishing.

The Booth hatchery in Spearfish was established in 1896, and is one of the oldest hatcheries in the country. The hatchery is staffed with full time employees from the National Park Service as well as volunteers.

This hatchery is beautifully maintained.  In addition to the ponds, and fish runs, this hatchery has a small museum, the original 1905 home for the Superintendent of the hatchery (DC Booth and his family), an Ice house and the most fascinating thing, a reproduction of one of ten original "Fish Cars".

Ten fish cars were built and used for 66 years.   The government built these cars, to transport the fish throughout the country.  The fish cars were staffed with a cook, three fish handlers and the captain.  They would travel from hatcheries to the railway stations in towns around the country.  Town leaders would make a request for the fish and in a few days they would meet the fish car to take position of the fish to plant in their local waterways.  By the early 1900's fish cars were crisscrossing the country en route as long as 10 days (with fish losses held down to only 1 percent).  They generally operated from April to November.  During the winter months, the cars were laid up for repair and maintenance.  The US Government has never charged for the fish.  Hatcheries are still used in much the same way today.  Fish are now transported by refrigerated trucks.

Deadwood...........  Well, I have seen a couple episodes of the HBO TV Series "Deadwood:, but that was my only introduction to the town and history of the area.

Deadwood is full of history.  It appears that the residents relish in their colorful history.  The entire town is on the National Historic Register.  You can't walk five feet without seeing historical markers.  Jon and I stopped into Saloon 10 to have a drink.  Saloon 10 is where Wild Bill was shot in the back and killed.  As we were sitting in the bar enjoying our beer, a local comes in with two tourists.  He was telling them the history of the Saloon and of Wild Bill.  He stopped where Jon was sitting and he said this is where Wild Bill was sitting when he was killed.

The saloon is on the other side of the street and down a bit from the original site of the Saloon 10, but it is a replica of the original.  

We visited Mt. Moriah Cemetery in Deadwood.  This place,  is more like a park / town than a cemetery.   It is absolutely beautiful.  

 Deadwood had a strong influence from early Jewish settlers and it is very apparent in the cemetery.  There are roads (lanes actually) and they are named.  A couple of the names are Solomon and Boaz.  I could have stayed in the cemetery for hours.  It doesn't look like a cemetery or feel like one either.  It is a bit morbid, but I felt very peaceful here.  The cemetery is closed - no new burials here.  Some of the famous residents include Wild Bill, Calamity Jane, Potato Creek Johnny, Preacher Smith and Seth Bullock.

Calamity Jane, used to tell people that she and Wild Bill were lovers.  But in truth, he hardly knew her.  She was enamoured with him and was a constant pest.  Wild Bill remarked that he had a hard time keeping her away from his whiskey.  Jane's dying request was to be buried next to Wild Bill and she is. 

We also took some nice motorcycle rides.  I love to ride and I enjoy the scenery.  I think South Dakota is a motorcycle enthusiasts dream.  Here are some pictures that I hope will capture some of the beauty of the area and give you a sense of what it is like.

Until next week!

07-13-13 Update

I have been procrastinating in writing my blog this week.  We have seen so much, but  I feel like I have just scratched the surface and that I don't have a good grasp of the area to be able to tell you about it.  I am usually not at a loss for words, so this is a bit frustrating for me.  At the same time, I am discovering things about myself that are difficult to express.  But I will do my best..............

We have spent most of this last week in Northwestern South Dakota. We have just barely begun to discover this area, but I know we can stay here for months and not see it all.  This area is so diverse and unique it is hard to pick a couple of things to talk about.  But I can say with certainty that there is more to see and do here within a 100 mile radius than anywhere else in the country.

We have been to Lead and Deadwood this week. Lead South Dakota..... What images does that conjure for you?  Any?  I didn't know Lead South Dakota existed until a few days ago but the instant we rode into this town, I loved it!  I am a fan of the beautiful City of San Francisco.  I have had the great fortune of living, for a short time, in that fantastic city.  I know that you will think that I have lost my mind, but my first impression of Lead reminded me of San Francisco.  The town was built in the late 1800's after Gold was discovered in the area. The homes are Victorian and are situated in the hills overlooking the small town.

The Homestake Mine in Lead (pronounced leed) was discovered and a claim was staked in April 1876, by June of 1877 George Hearst (William Randolph Hearst's father) bought the 4 1/2 acre claim for $70,000.00.  

While Mrs. Hearst (Phoebe) spent very little time in the Lead, she had a significant impact on the town. Her husband was 18 years older than she and when he died in 1891, she had sole control of his vast wealth.  Phoebe's primary concern was for the welfare of the people in the towns where her husband had mining interests.  This included Lead South Dakota, where in 1894 as a Christmas gift she founded a free library.  The library was maintained at her personal expense until her death in 1925, when all books, art objects and equipment were donated to the Homestake mining company.  Homestake decided to continue the library.

Phoebe was a generous and fascinating woman who believed in education for all.  The PTA (Parent Teachers Association), was her idea.  She had previously established kindergartens in other areas of the country and when asked in 1900 by the Lead's Womens group about starting one in Lead, she agreed to endow and support it.  She also encouraged women to become educated and to study medicine.  She started the Homeopathic Institute for Women and funded it until women were allowed to enroll in medical schools.

The Homestake mine, until it's closure in 2002, was the largest and deepest gold mine in North America, producing more than 40 million ounces of gold.  The discovery of Gold............  What chain of events that started.  Western migration of white settlers, the near extinction of the Native Americans, the immigration of people from all over the world,  the melding of peoples and cultures that now make up the United States of America.  And that was only the beginning.............

The following text is from an article that I read and I am retyping it here for you.

The Article is titled "An Underground Universe" The former homestake gold mine in Lead has been converted into one of the world's most advanced physics laboratories.

The Sanford Underground Research Facility - or simply,  the Sanford Lab, provides underground laboratory space for ultra-sensitive experiments that require protection from the cosmic radiation that constantly bombards the surface of the earth.  Cosmic radiation - mostly protons traveling at very high speed - hits the upper atmosphere and creates a shower of secondary particles, including muons, which can overwhelm physics experiments on the surface.  A thick layer of rock can block that cosmic "noise".  Today, experiments in underground laboratories in Italy, Japan, Canada and China are looking for answers to fundamental questions, such as why matter exists and how the universe evolved.  That research includes experiments to explore the properties of subatomic particles called neutrinos and detectors searching for a mysterious substance called "dark matter," - the dominant form of matter in the universe, which so far, remains undetected.

I think Phoebe Hearst would be pleased that the Homestake Mine is providing leading scientists, engineers, educators and technicians a place to study the universe.   So maybe I am not crazy, maybe Lead SD is a bit like San Francisco.  I tell you it was my first thought when I saw the town and after discovering the impact of the Heart's and the Gold and the Physics Lab, I think my instincts were right on.

Also this week we took a motorcycle ride through Spearfish Canyon.  The ride starts in the small town of Spearfish and ends at a little fork in the road called Cheyenne Crossing.

The ride through the canyon is approximately 20 miles. The canyon was formed by the spearfish creek and the limestone is more ancient than the Grand Canyon.  It is said that the Colorado River began forming the Grand Canyon approximately 17 million years ago; the Spearfish Canyon formation began somewhere between 30 and 60 millions years ago.

This picture is of the lodge in the Spearfish Canyon.  The final scene from "Dances with Wolves" was filmed just beyond the Lodge.

As we were riding the motorcycle along this 20 miles route, for the first time, I  felt that I was an actual participant in my life and not just an observer.  If you are like me, than you get up each morning knowing what needs to be done.  Work..... that was mostly what I did.  Laundry... Grocery Shop...  etc., you have a home and kids and an existence - that was me and probably, like most of you.  But I did the scariest thing I could imagine, I sold my house, I quit my job and I said goodbye to everything that I had, all that I worked so hard for and headed into the unknown.  I can't begin to tell you how this has changed me.  I was a complete control freak and work-a-holic.  I was miserable and I didn't really know it,  not consciously anyway.  I did what I thought I had to do.  I thought I needed the nice house and the nice job and the ordinary life that most of lead.  Along this 20 mile ride, I saw a home, a beautiful one, with the creek running in front and the hill behind the house and the arch over the driveway that says "A little piece of Heaven"

That day, that ride, that sign, it has had a profound effect on me.  I am still trying to figure out what it means, but I know I have changed more in the last few months than I have in the last 20 years and I am looking forward to what this means for me now and for my future.

7-04-13 Update

Happy 4th of July!!!!

This last week we said goodbye to Cody.  Jon and I both really enjoyed our time here.

This is the Irna Hotel.  It was one of the first buildings in Cody.  This was built by William Cody and named after his youngest child, his daughter Irma.  Jon and I had dinner here on our first night in Cody.

I am sorry to report the food was not great, I would barely call it edible.  But we enjoyed the history and the charm.  Every night (with the exception of Sunday) at 6:00 PM a group of characters do a 45 minute show in the street in front of the Irma.  The group of volunteers do a skit for the visitors and locals alike.  I can assure you - this is the happenin spot on a Saturday night in downtown Cody.  They sell posters and sell reserved seating to raise money for charity.  Four or five local establishments (one being the Irma hotel) sponsor the group by supplying them with the money to pay for gunpowder and other items needed for the show.

The show was corny but it did have a few spots that made me chuckle.  If you find yourself in Cody Wyoming, it is a fun night out downtown.  Cody is also known as the Rodeo Capital of the world.  There is a rodeo every night in Cody from June through September.  Jon and I didn't go, as neither of us are really into the Rodeo scene.  You know the saying, "Save a horse, ride a cowboy".................  :)

This week before we left the Cody area Jon and I made a trip to the Medicine Wheel.  I have to say it was an experience.  Several years ago, the local Indian's were successful in stopping visitors in driving all the way up Medicine Mountain to the site of the Medicine Wheel.  There is a parking lot about 1 1/2 miles below the crest of the mountain and now you must walk the rest of the way to see the Wheel.

It was a gorgeous day.  The sun was shining, and it was about 68 degrees the afternoon we made our way up the mountain.  The wildflowers were incredible, and the views were exceptional. 

Walking up the mountain to see something that had and still has a significant "spiritual" meaning to the Indians who walked this country for many centuries before the Europeans came, well it was powerful to say the least.  I feel extremely privileged to have spent a few minutes on the mountain.  

We are now on the Eastern side of Wyoming, in a small campground outside of Sundance.  It is where the "kid" got his name.   --- "The Sundance Kid" ----   It is a quaint little town and we are enjoying the area so far.

  Yesterday we took a motorcycle ride to the "Devils Tower".

This is a national monument (the first) and popular with the tourists.  There are approximately 5,000 people annually who climb the face of the tower.  This is another place that has spiritual significance to the Indian's.  It is very interesting geographically - this is where the Black Hills meet the Grasslands.  And the way that the tower was formed is still debated by geologists and scientists.  

On our way back to the campground Jon took a different route and we went through a little town called Hulett.  It isn't big, two streets, but was so amazing was there is not one modern building in the entire town.  This is a picture of the bank.  It isn't a Wells Fargo or Bank of America.  It is just called "Bank".

The town was very cute and I was glad that we went through it.  One thing that I have noticed in Wyoming that I don't like, is there is a Post Office in every town, even if the population is 20.  I have seen it numerous times on our travels through the state.  I am not sure how our Federal Government can justify spending our tax dollars to operate dozens, maybe a hundred Post Offices in towns with so few residents, especially when they are within 10 miles or so of bigger towns.  

Well that isn't very patriotic criticizing our government on the 4th of July.   I don't like politics or politicians for that matter and I will not use my travel blog to spread discontent.  But I will say that I have not felt patriotic in some time.  And I feel sad when I think of what we as American's did and still do to remain free.  I saw a sign the other day - "America home of the free, because of the brave"   

I can't say it better than that.................  Until next week.